The cocoons of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx Mori) go through a boiling process in which the serocin (gum-like substance produced by the worm), that keeps the cocoon’s shape and protects the pupae, is dissolved. After drying these boiled-off cocoons the silk threads are loose and ready for spinning or stretching into squares for the production of the most gorgeous duvet inners. There are two methods of spinning the silk. The first method is the one used for fine silk products most people recognize as silk. With this method a single thread is reeled off a cocoon that was boiled with the pupae inside, because once the moth exists the thread will be broken. Using a good quality cocoon this continuous thread can be up to 1,3km long. This is the method used for producing the fine silk associated with Eastern countries. For the second method, the cocoons are boiled after the moth's exit. The silk is then pulled off the cocoon and stretched into the thickness wanted for the yarn. This stretched-out silk is then hand spun into a thicker, more Africa-like yarn to produce a luxurious thick, rough texture.

WILD SILK OF SOUTHERN AFRICA

We also process the wild silk of the Mopani worm. This process is more labour intensive than the silk of the silkworm.

The Mopani worm does not feed in captivity; therefore the cocoons are harvested from the nature.

The indigenous wild silk worm Gonameta Postica (Host Plant – Acacia Tree) and Gonameta Rifobrinnea (Host Plant – Mopani Tree) is still a mystery in South Africa and around the world.  With this worm it is impossible to do commercial silk farming, because the pupae goes into a diapause (rest phase) and nobody knows what triggers the pupae to emerge as a moth. Therefore the cycle is totally unpredictable.  In the regions where the host plants are available it is reported that, because of this diapause of variable lengths of time, some years an outbreak of these worms are experienced, while other years not one cocoon is to be found. This makes it virtually impossible to farm this worm profitably.

The cocoons are collected after the moths emerge. The collection has to be controlled to ensure that only the discarded, empty cocoons are collected, so as not to disturb the balance of nature.  Wild silk is scarce and production unpredictable, and is therefore to be handled with utmost respect and consideration.

The cocoons used at Africa Silks are collected in the Vryburg area as well as Namibia, where a job creation project is run for unemployed women. 

The cocoons are spun on the branches of the trees. Upon the moth's exit, the cocoons drop to the ground, from where they are collected by women of the project.  Because the cocoons are exposed to all the elements of nature, the Mopani worm coats the threads with a very strong serosin. The cocoons are therefore very hard and nut-like and the boiling process cannot dissolve the strong serosin. To soften the Mopani cocoons, they are put into wet hessian bags and buried underground for two weeks.

The bacterial process underground breaks down the serosin and the silk threads are then washed, brushed and spun into yarn, ready for weaving. Whereas the silkworm produces a white silk, the Mopani worm produces a lovely earthy, fawn coloured silk. An added bonus to this job creating project is the fact that in the past, these worms were regarded as a pest by live stock farmers. While grazing, the livestock ingest the cocoons and cannot digest them. This causes blockages of which the animals often die. By clearing the farms of empty cocoons the farmers have less fatalities amongst their livestock, while opportunities are created for the unemployed women. By collecting only empty, discarded cocoons, the mopani worm is not threatened and a sustainable project is ensured. Click  here  for more information on Community development.